Yellowstone September 16, 2012

On this day I would have to head home — but not before having some more fun in the Park.

I pulled up my tent stakes and packed up, then headed south from the Norris Campground as far as the Gibbon Meadows. I caught a quick glimpse of a grizzly bear through the morning fog, but he disappeared as quickly as he appeared.

I headed back north to make one last (of this trip) swing through the Northern Range.

It was a peaceful, quiet morning.

Once again, I took the old stagecoach gravel road from Mammoth Hot Springs to the North Entrance and, once again, found only cow elk.
This lovely cow elk, posing with the sun highlighting the gold tones in her beautiful coat, is a view guaranteed to entice any bull elk thereabouts, but the bulls were not to be found on this morning.

beautiful cow elk sure to entice any bull elk during the rut

I drove back up the Gardiner Canyon main road and headed east.

I never drive by the Petrified Tree turnout without taking that little spur road.  I’ve seen moose, foxes, many black bears, and occasional mule deer there.  I was a bit surprised to see this whitetail deer doe, along with two fawns with fading spots.  That’s mule deer country!

There was some interesting bison activity in the Lamar Valley.  There was quite a dust-up occurring in one herd, with a double header of two pairs of bulls sparring at the same time, while other members of the herd were stampeding about.

Two pairs of bull bison butting heads

small bison stampede

Just a little east of the Soda Butte geyser cone, I was excited to find an undiscovered bull bison carcass just about 100 yards from the road — only magpies and I had found it thus far.  I watched as magpies landed on the carcass and pecked at it.  I resigned myself to getting home VERY late that night (or perhaps even calling my boss and asking to extend my vacation).  I positioned the car better so I could comfortably watch and wait for bears, wolves or coyotes to discover the carcass.  The magpies continued to work at it.  I sent a text message to my dad, who was also in the Park, to alert him of the existence of this carcass, which was sure to become an active hotspot soon.  Then there was a flurry of activity as the carcass lifted its head and the magpies took off.   Alrighty, then.  Not dead.  Sick?  Dying?  I debated with myself.  Wait and see what might happen?  Head home?  I decided heading home was the more prudent course.  In the end, that proved to be the right call.  Nothing ever happened there I found in checking with others that were in the Park in the following days.

I wanted to re-visit the talus slope where I had seen the weasel make a strike on a pika earlier in the trip, hoping for a repeat performance.  I didn’t get a repeat performance, but I DID get a great pika show.

Pika eat stems of currant leaves just like kids  (of all ages) eat spaghetti noodles.  Slurp!

A pika slurps up a stem of currant, just like a kid (of any age) slurping up a spaghetti noodle

I dared this pika to try the noodle routine with a long stem of thistle leaf, but he ultimately used a different technique.

A pika with a stem of thistle

My dare prompted this pika to make a smart-aleck remark.

a pika with a teasing tongue out expression

This pika almost ran over my feet.

A pika appears larger than life in a close up view

Not to be outdone, this pika demonstrated his talent for fire eating.

A pika eats a fiery red currant leaf

Meanwhile, a more serious and industrious pika, like any good haymaker, was busy making hay while the sun shines.   Pikas don’t hibernate – rather, they store hay in their dens to get them through lean winter days.

When a red-tailed hawk circled overhead, sending the pikas deep into hiding, I decided it was time for me to head home before my imagination ran entirely away with me.

Yellowstone September 15, 2012

Last full day in the Park(s) for this trip.

I started the day by heading east over the Norris-Canyon Road.  I took the Virginia Cascades drive and stopped for another morning photo from the meadow above the cascades.  On this morning, fog and smoke from the Cygnet Complex fires combined for a surreal sunrise.

Smoke from the Cygnet Complex Fires combines with morning fog and frost for a surreal sunrise over a meadow along the Virginia Cascades Drive.

Thus the theme of the day was established – FIRE.

I found foliage mimicking tongues of flame.

Fall plumage in the yellow, orange and red colors of flames

Fiery fireweed stood like torches on an island on Sylvan Lake.

Fiery fireweed on an island in Sylvan Lake

The Cygnet Complex fire was actively burning along the Norris-Canyon road, up to the power line corridor.

Flames of the Cygnet Complex of wild fires - September 2012

By mid-afternoon I found myself back in the meadow above Virginia Cascades, watching the active Cygnet Complex fires from where I could watch the smoke plumes without being socked in smoke. I was mesmerized by the braiding of the white, gray and black streams of smoke. Over the 9 minutes in the video below, the fire grew considerably.

Yellowstone, September 14, 2012

After a night of very poor sleep, having spent it in the car where it was parked at White Dome Geyser, even though my tent was pitched at Norris Campground, because I was too tired to drive back to camp, I got in motion again before sunrise.

I figured, since I was in the neighborhood, and since I haven’t taken any photos there in ages, I’d hit Firehole Falls…

…then the cascades on the Firehole River near the end of Firehole Lake Drive.

This lovely cascade is upriver of Firehole Falls, near where Firehole Lake Drive means the main Great Loop - Yellowstone National Park

I made a brief stop at Norris Campground to re-register for a couple more nights, then headed over to Canyon.  I turned on to the road to Artist Point, as I had several times before, to see if that herd I had seen from the Wapiti Lake Trail Head might be around.  They weren’t.  But, once again, I figured that as long as I was in the neighborhood, at it was getting to be that time, I might as well park and see how the morning rainbow in the spray of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone displayed on this day.  Not the best rainbow there, not by a long shot…

I turned north after the visit to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, driving slowly over Dunraven and stopping for several minutes at each pullout, searching for bears in the white pines.  Nothin’.

I turned east for a trip to the Lamar Valley.  Near the bridge over the Yellowstone River I saw 3 mule deer bedded down on the other side of the ravine. This doe didn’t seem impressed or amused when I said “My, what big ears you have!”

Showing off those large mule deer ears!

After an uneventful tour of the Northern Range, I again drove the old stagecoach gravel road from Mammoth Hot Springs to Gardiner.
I came upon a few cow elk, one of which seemed to be calling “Romeo, Romeo, where art thou, Romeo,” but Romeo was nowhere to be found.

cow elk calling

For my last stop of the day, I visited a large herd of elk near Canyon Junction, about 800 yards from the road, at the timber line.  I walked out about 600 yards.  The harem bull was very wary of me and it was clear that 200 yards was as close as I was going to get and the light was fading anyway, and I was whipped after the previous night’s lack of sleep, so I headed to camp to cook a real meal and hit the sack early.

Yellowstone September 13, 2012 – Geyser Day

On this morning, I awoke in a cloud of smoke at the Norris Campground, but once I drove out of the smoke cloud I found myself in a brilliant bluebird day morning, without a cloud in the sky.  I drove slowly through the Hayden Valley looking for wildlife.  There was a crowd at the Grizzly Overlook in the Hayden Valley.   I saw my dad’s pickup there, but there was no where for me to park, so I kept on going.  I sent him a text “Saw ya at Grizzly Overlook at sunrise but couldn’t park.  Good wolf watching?”  The reply I received was “4G 2W 1Bcarcass great live action” (that’s 4 grizzlies & 2 wolves on a bison carcass).   Well!

My morning was more mellow, to put it mildly.  But, that’s okay.  Mellow is good, too.

The light of the rising sun caught in plums of steam from vents along the Yellowstone River as it meanders through the Hayden Valley

I drove the lower loop of the Grand Tour slow and easy, not feeling very ambitious on this day (in part due to a migraine and in part because I’d been pushing pretty hard for several days).  I detoured off the main road to take the Firehole Lake Drive.  When I arrived at Great Fountain Geyser, I found that I was within the predicted eruption window and the water level was high, so I stopped.

Morning at the Great Fountain geyser along Firehole Lake Drive - Yellowstone National Park

After a short time, a Ranger arrived.  I said “I’ll take your arrival as a good sign.”  He replied “We’ll see.”  He walked down the road and returned a few minutes later.  He explained that he had taken a thermometer to take the temperature of a runoff channel.   He connected that thermometer to a notebook computer and, based on temperature of the runoff water, was able to extrapolate the time of the most recent eruption.  I had missed it by more than an hour.  Bummer. It was so pretty in that late morning light…

Morning at the Great Fountain geyser along Firehole Lake Drive - Yellowstone National Park

Based on the chart calculations, he predicted the next eruption would be 8:24 that evening, give or take two hours either direction.  Hmmm….  well….  If it popped an hour early, that would be a sunset eruption.  Something to keep in mind…

In any event, I was now in the mood for geyser gazing, so I headed to the Upper Geyser Basin, loaded my backpack with a couple pb&j sandwiches, and hit the boardwalks.

I started out on the bike path, headed for Daisy Geyser and/or Riverside Geyser but soon realized that there wasn’t much point in that.  I had just missed them both.  However, Grotto Geyser was playing and a dedicated geyser gazer had a good feeling about Rocket Geyser, so I joined her there for a while and enjoyed visiting with her.  I kicked myself later that I didn’t introduce myself and learn her name.

In time, we gave up on Rocket and moved on to wait a guaranteed show – Grand Geyser, which has been on a roll with intervals less than 6 hours between eruptions. Grand Geyser did not disappoint.

Following the Grand Geyser eruption, I moved over to Beehive. Beehive is not a predictable geyser but the dedicated geyser gazers with whom I had been chatting had a good feeling about it, and that’s good enough for me.

I should have hung out at Lion Geyser for a few minutes on my way to Beehive. I almost missed it running back and wasn’t able to place myself in the ideal spot from which to photograph its eruption. I still enjoyed Lion’s roar, though.

Lion Geyser, so named for the roaring sound of it's eruptions...

Had I been in time, I would have preferred to stand where Heart Spring beautifully adorns the foreground in front of Lion.

Lion Geyser and Heart Spring

I returned to Beehive Geyser and it wasn’t long before the Beehive Indicator erupted, signalling that a Beehive Geyser eruption was imminent.

After enjoying Beehive’s eruption, I mosied back to the parking lot, stopping to enjoy the sights along the way.

Spasmodic Geyser

Crested Pool

Then I decided to do something unheard of. I stopped and cooked a real meal while the sun was still up. I had the best pork chop I’ve had in a very long time at the Whiskey Flats picnic area before returning to Great Fountain Geyser, with fingers crossed for a sunset eruption.

Well, a sunset eruption was not to be on this day. However, the fountain was beautiful in the twilight as steam drifted lazily against the pink painted western horizon.

When there was just a little light remaining, I said to the lady next to me “Do I see a dome of water there?” She replied that if I did, my eyes were better than hers. Splash! Yep! I was right. Eruption with just enough twilight light left to see it by.

Twilight Eruption of Great Fountain Geyser

After enjoying Great Fountain’s twilight show, I moved down the road just a bit to White Dome Geyser, above which the stars were twinkling while a bit of twilight red remained on the western horizon.

stars twinkle over White Dome Geyser at twilight

A clear night, twinkling stars… the situation was ripe for a star trails to cap off a day of taking it easy and engaging in what my cousin’s daughter cheerily calls “happy waiting” (that’s how she defines being patient).

Yellowstone September 12, 2012

I couldn’t have asked for a better start to the day.  I pulled up my tent stakes at Lewis Lake Campground before sunrise and made the short drive to the West Thumb Geyser Basin, fingers crossed that the harem that had been there on the evening of the 10th would making a sunrise show.  I was not disappointed.  It was a different bull on this morning, and with only one cow, but he posed beautifully.

A bull elk silhouetted against a steam plume lit and colored by the rising sun - West Thumb Geyser Basin

I mentioned in passing in my trip report for Sept 8-10 that the bull that evening had chased off a spike bull and menaced visitors on the boardwalk.  I neglected to mention, then, that what saved the visitors on the boardwalk was the obstacle of hot spring pools.  The bull on that evening charged at them (from well over 50 yards away), and skidded to a stop when he came to a hot spring pool.  I kept that in mind on this morning, keeping a Black Pool (a large hot spring pool) between this bull and me.  He never made any menacing motions, but I am wary of bulls in rut.  Without the barrier of Black Pool between us, his stare would have made me uneasy.

A bull elk poses surrounded by steam from hydrothermal features at the West Thumb Geyser Basin in sweet sunrise light.

He sure is a handsome gent.

A majestic bull elk in sunrise light.

The view was pretty good looking the other direction, too.

Sunrise in the West Thumb Geyser Basin

After the sun rose, the elk moved off to the west and I walked around the rest of the geyser basin.  Pulling out of the parking lot, and heading north, I encountered the pair again.  The bull was grazing amongst pearly everlasting wild flowers.

A bull elk buries his nose in a patch of pearly everlasting wild flowers

The bulls get most of the human attention this time of year, so I feel compelled to point out how gorgeous his companion was looking with her hide glowing with radiance in the morning sunlight.

Look how beautifully glowing her hide is shining in the morning sunlight!

I went north as far as the Norris Campground, where I put my tent stakes down again before turning south again, but this time along the western side of the Great Loop.  I haven’t stopped to check out The Chocolate Pots for a while, so I stopped at that pullout.

 hydrothermal feature located along the Gibbon River in Yellowstone National Park

The light was right for granting a good view of the red streambed of the Gibbon River.  The streambed is red there and at other sections.  I always intended to do a long exposure of a section of ripples over the red streambed along the Gibbon.  I blew my opportunity to do so easily when I failed to do so before the road was re-routed.  I remain curious as to what makes the stream bed red there.  I asked a retired Ranger who, in turn, asked some former colleagues.  No definitive answer.  I’ll pose my question to a Park geologist next, but I haven’t gotten around to that yet.

In the afternoon I visited a talus slope where I have photographed pika in the past, like the baby pika last May.  At first I was occasionally hearing pika, but not seeing any.  I waited.  Eventually, I saw some pika.  I took a few photos, but I was hoping they would move closer to me, as they had in May.  There was one pika perched on the top of a rock, sunning.  I had my camera aimed at him when he suddenly became alert and ducked into a rock crevice.  Then – a flash of orange colored fur!  A weasel made a strike on that pika!  He emerged from the crevice almost immediately.   His strike had, apparently, been a miss.  He missed the pika, but I caught him!

The pika were apparently not taking any chances on coming out of their hidey-holes after that, so eventually I moved on and found another hunter – a coyote hunting ground squirrels.  He caught 4-5 in a 20 minute period.

A coyote demonstrates its ground squirrel hunting cunning

A trip to Gardiner was in order to restock my beverage supply so I headed in that direction.  I took the old gravel stagecoach one-way road from Mammoth Hot Springs to Gardiner, hoping I’d find a herd of elk.  I found a small herd of cows, but no bull.  Meanwhile, I could tell there was some excitement on the main road down below me, as I could see stopped cars lining the road near the parking lot for the Boiling River trailhead.  Whatever was there then was gone by the time I had made my purchases in Gardiner and was headed up that road.

I made an evening trip to visit the Lamar Valley and found it relatively quiet but enjoyed the peace.

I opted to drive back to Mammoth before heading south instead of going over Dunraven Pass, as I found that route quite depressing this trip, with the mess of construction around Calcite Springs almost bringing tears to my eyes when I went through it.  It’s painful to me to see what they are doing there.

Returning to the south, I saw that the Cygnet Complex fires had been quite active.  I drove the Norris-Canyon road just to check it out and stopped and visited with a fire information officer who told me that it had, indeed, been a very active afternoon for fire growth and that the fire had hopped the road.  Then I retired to spend a very smokey night in my tent at the Norris Campground.